Brunello di Montalcino 2009
89 POINTS "The 2009 Brunello Andretta appears more advanced in terms of its aromatic evolution and shows heavier tones of tar, licorice, barbecue spice, leather and grilled herbs. There are very distinct endnotes that recall both dried cherry and smoked spice. This vintage displays flatter, more evolved fruit for near term consumption.
Guido Andretta and Rosalba Vitanza moved from Rome years ago to follow their drim of making wine in Tuscany. Their beautiful Tenuta Vitanza is located in the Torrenieri zone, in the far northheast corner of the appellation. This area is characterized by dense cley soils and the wine made here offer a significant departure from the rest of Montalcino in terms of extra color, extract and general boldness. In fact, this deaparture is sometimes so great that some hae questioned whether Torrenieri should be included in the appellation at all. These prejudice are ridiculos. Giving stronger identity to the individual sub-zone of Brunello di Montalcino helps to establish the stylistic versatility of sangiovese as expressed through the strict winemaking bylaws set forth by te denomination. This different wine don't take away to the prestige of Brunello, but add to it in my view.